You say evacuation….I say holiday

Car’s hijacked in the streets, large scale armed clashes in the market, imminent attacks threaten on the capitol…I think its time to go to the pool! Darfur continues its ever-present slide toward Somalia Part II. In the past three weeks the African Union (you know that “Peacekeeping Force” who is supposed to protect civilians) was over run by a reported 2000 armed men in the largest attack on the AU in its history in Darfur. Hijacking of humanitarian vehicles inside of Nyala town has become the national pastime (6 in 6 days). And now some pissed off militia leader (read former ally of the Sudanese Government) is threatening to attack Nyala over un paid salaries. Can’t they just go on strike like the French, collectively say “no more burning and pillaging until we are properly paid!”

So in the midst of all of this where have I been? Well, practically everywhere at this point. I think I have hit every corner of Darfur in the past month and met every type of person one might meet in their life. Janjaweed leaders on the ICC most wanted list, CHECK. Former US Presidents, CHECK. National Security trying to kick me out of town X, CHECK. Lots of IDPs, Sheiks, and various other types, CHECK and CHECK. The fun just never seems to end. So at some point between flying high over Darfur and making it back to the office it seems that the UN is suggesting an evacuation of all non-essential staff from Nyala. Now we can’t call it an actual evacuation, that has all sorts of insurance issues that prove to be a headache, so instead we will call it a “Partial Relocation of Non-Primary Staff During the Eid Holiday”

So a mass exodus of pathetic looking humanitarian workers has now descended upon Khartoum, filling hotels and restaurants, and trying to sap every contact dry for possible alcohol in the area. So as mass chaos continues to ensue Darfur, a Spring break like holiday has turned up on rooftop apartments and any type of swimming establishment in the area. For a brief moment we are all almost able to feel like normal people…going out to eat, having an actual house, not having a curfew or hearing gunshots a night…you know, normal people. But at the same time we barely know what to do with ourselves. We end up wandering aimlessly at times and get quickly overwhelmed by the plethora of choices available to us. Much like Plato’s cave dwellers finally entering into the light of reality, we are a bit scared and longing to head back to the comfortable illusion that is Darfur. But for the time being the chaos and frustration can wait…I believe there is a pool some where near by and quiet frankly...I need a break.