Visits, Events, Bugs, and Being Back

Besides the obvious cockroaches, mosquitoes, spiders, and ants these are the type of bugs that visit us at night here in Darfur. I suppose a true field of perception is lacking in this picture, but this “little” fellow is about the size of my hand. I should make up some horrifying story about how these bugs eat your flesh or burrow inside your ear at night…but to be honest they seem rather harmless. Most of the time I find them flipped over on their backs trying to right themselves and be on their way. In my more Buddhist moments I help turn them right-side-up, only to find them flipped over again 10 minutes later in nearly the same spot. Now while this creature may be harmless, the rainy season has brought on a rather large number of what is known as the Nairobi Eye. Commonly found in Kenya and known for the red spot on its back this little bug is full of acid and when ever you squish it you end up with acid all over you. I have been lucky and only have burns on my ankle, but many other have ended up with the painful marks on many other parts of the body. I suppose it makes us all think twice before squishing our little insect friends, but it is a painful lesson to learn.

Speaking of bugs…a certain president, from a certain country, that I may or may not be living in right now, is visiting this week. The airport is shut; the national band is practicing, and everyone as on restricted movement as well armed military vehicles cruise up and down the street. And you have to wonder what this person is coming to see. Surely it is not to check on the well being of the civilians, for that is obviously not a concern. In which case it must be to come and make sure that the ongoing military campaign that has resulted in hundreds of thousands of deaths and millions of people being forced from their homes is working. I guess if that’s the point he will find his visit productive…things seem to be going to plan.

Speaking of plans…the UN and the AU have received an “unconditional” guarantee from the Government of Sudan that a large Hybrid force will be allowed into the Darfur region. Now despite the fact that this “unconditional” agreement has already been met with conditions and delays (its only a month old!), and the fact that none of these forces are going to be on the ground until the end of 2008, we are already starting to see the effects. And by effects I mean that all of the rebel fractions, militias, and any guy with a gun are using this time to stock up on supplies and secure land. Assuming that this Hybrid force will actually bring some semblance of stability to the region, all of the armed groups see this time as their last chance to plunder the UN and NGOs and fight for their little piece of territory. There is now a serious security incident towards humanitarian staff every day and no one can even drive their vehicles to the field because it is basically just handing your car keys to the thieves. Some things never change.

Speaking of things changing…a lot of good friends have left now, but there are still many familiar face to greet me on my return. It is odd the strange bond we all have, a type of “Band of Brothers” fellowship of understanding and support…usually in the form of a shared drink or a witty remark. And while I hesitate to say its good to be back, it is after all still a big hot desert with an awful war going on, there is a sense of familiarity that is rather welcoming, so for the time being I will enjoy that.