It is safe to say that Darfur will never be a tourist destination. Regardless of whether or not the violence ceases, there is not a large esthetic appeal to the landscape. For the most part Darfur contains endless miles of hot, flat, dry bush landscape. The occasional wadi or rock out-cropping serve as the only major landmark in an otherwise bleak savanna. During certain months, like now for example, the air fills with dust that blocks out the sun and makes you think a rain storm is coming, only to later realized how wrong you where as sand hurls through your window. And for the most part we learn to adjust to this landscape which helps make R&R all the more enjoyable.
But occasionally I have been fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of the beauty that this harsh land is capable of. In the middle of Darfur exists two inactive volcanoes from a time long ago. Reaching heights of over 3000 meters they form the highlands of Darfur and provide the most breath taking scenery this land has to offer. Steep cliffs and gullies line the road on the way up the mountain side and springs and waterfalls form brief seas of green in an otherwise desolate land. Higher up the mountain the hot desert air gives was to the cool breeze of the mountains and pine trees cover the hillside.
The area remains remote, the rugged hills and mountains forming a fortress that the non-signatory rebels call home. Untouched by most NGOs, we have been lucky enough to gain access there for quite some time and have traveled the land extensively. And while heart ache and suffering dwell here just as much as else where in Darfur, the surrounding beauty provides a constant reminder that there is something more then death and destruction. Of course the nearly 50,000 IDPs streaming into the area due to bombing campaigns serve as a strong reminder as to the work that must be done, the ability to take a step back from the insanity and view the beauty around you is a breath of fresh air the brings life to the soul. For now, this will have to serve as my R&R.