A Random Evening in Northern Uganda

Ten years ago I would have been ashamed to be in a house this nice with this many creature comforts in a place like Gulu. Surrounded by poverty, a community traumatized by decades of war, surely my lifestyle should replicate some type of sacrificial concern for those around me. I am sure I would have been polite to whom ever had been kind enough to invite me in, but lurking beneath the surface would surely have been some level of self righteous pride about my ability to live “amongst” the people. Granted ten years ago I really had very few options but to live amongst the people but it hardly seems relevant when the pride in the actions is taken into consideration…besides, when you can stop living “amongst” the people whenever you want to, what does it really mean any way? But I digress….

So here I am, ten years later, enjoying every moment and thinking about what I would do with the house if I lived here. It’s amazing how well the US government can replicate middle class suburbia in the middle of northern Uganda, right down to the Ethan Allen furniture. They even account for the excess we American’s try to replicate everywhere we go. They’ve got two fridges in here, two! Ok, ones a fridge and the other a freezer, but full size American fridge and freezer, you could fit a cow in there. Now it’s true, we live in a pretty nice house too, likely much nicer then we will ever have when we actually buy a house some day. But two fridges, I could…I’m not sure what I would do with that actually but it would be awesome. And that industrial size generator looks great, no more turning the water heater off when we run our weak two stroke during the day long power cuts. And an AC! I mean, that would be wonderful during the 15 days a year you really need an AC. Ok, this is getting to be a bit much, maybe I should get back to the conversation and stop staring at the house with some type of oddly placed lust.

“This cheese is great, how much exactly did you bring up from Kampala”

“A lot” Mary replies “Everyone told me to stock up before arriving but now I have a fridge full of cheese and it won’t last forever.”

“Well, I am sure we can help you with that, it’s what friends are for” responds Beth.

“Speaking of friends, did Nicole convince USAID to let her come down to Gulu after her trip to Karamoja? It would be really great to see her.”

“I’m not sure” says Mary “but Jonny and I are heading up to Kidepo Lodge to meet her and do some game drives and stay at that amazing lodge, should be great!”

“Why exactly is Nicole going to Karamoja when she is based in Kenya? Shouldn’t someone from USAID Uganda be covering that?” Beth asks.

“That would make sense, but that’s not how the USG works. Nicole runs OFDA and OFDA has left Uganda because it is no longer an emergency. But they still fund some programs in Karamoja so she has to go check in on those” Mary explains.

“Of course, run one country from another one, it’s the American way.”

“Well if it brings Nicole here, plus the trip to Kidepo should be amazing” replies Mary.

I can’t really disagree as I am trying to plot in my head how I can justify joining in the adventure. Although seeing as how we don’t work in Karamoja, nor for USAID, or have any holiday time left, it seems unlikely that Beth and I can make the trip. Maybe something will come up…

Mary’s phone starts ringing again…the thing is always going, a different song for every person. I could never do that; I would be too stressed about what underlying message is being said behind each person’s song. And what if you picked a funny song from an inside joke or something and then “I like big butts” comes on during a work meeting on gender violence, it could happen, I’m sure of it. She has one of those Blackberry phones that do more than my computer. It's probably a dinosaur by normal standards but the things still intimidate me. It’s not so much that I can’t use them, it has more to do with the fact that I know I am only using 10% of their total ability and for some reason that really bothers me. I’m not sure if that’s pride or shame or some weird combo but it still really bugs me and keeps me pleasantly set on my simple unbreakable Nokia with the super handy flashlight on the top. I still argue it is the most useful function a phone has here in Uganda besides actually calling people.

“Is that a serious conversation taking place on a Friday night? It must be because she’s new and hasn’t learned to ignore work calls on the weekend.”

“Such is the life of a US government employee” replies Beth

I find this the perfect opportunity to go in for the last piece of brie while Mary is distracted by work. This way I don’t look like the rude guy who took the last piece and we also avoid the stupid situation of everyone leaving the last piece sitting there all night so as not to appear rude while the wonderful cheese goes to waste, stupid. Just in time, Mary’s all done on the phone.

“What’s the news?”

“There was an attack in Karamoja on IRC while they were driving back from a meeting” Mary informs us.

“Shit”

“Is everyone ok?” Beth ask

Mary shakes her head, “From the early accounts it looks like there were two vehicles involved, one IRC and one rental. The attackers shot at both cars hitting the driver in the first but he was able to keep driving and lost sight of the second car, the rental. There were two IRC expats in the first car but neither was hit”

“How bad was the driver hurt?”

I’m starting to have flash backs to Darfur and trying not to get a bit choked up as I picture our driver trying to get to safety with a bullet through his arm.

“He was wearing a flak jacket and was shot in the stomach so it is only heavy bruising so he should be fine. Both the expats where wearing flak jackets as well. They were able to make it to the military outpost and report, but the second car never made it. Apparently the UPDF reported that all three people in the second car were killed, including a district official who was also attending the meeting” Mary explains.

“When I went out there we had a military convoy with us, which we all thought was a bit excessive at the time but as I was with the UN I just had to roll with it…but now it seems like a good idea” says Beth. “We had flak jackets in the car but no one wore them.”

“Fuck, I remember these types of conversations every day in Darfur, but this seems like a whole different world, like it shouldn’t be possible. And yet it’s only a 4-5 hour drive from here, kinda surreal.”

Mary interjects, “Well apparently one of the individuals involved was the wife of someone who works for the US Gov. so there are questions on if they should have been there at all. A spouse has some of the same security requirements as the person who actually works for USAID. Hopefully everything was approved ahead of time.”

“I wonder if Nicole will still be able to go to Karamoja and come visit Gulu? Somehow I doubt that security is going to approve that trip now.”

“Yea, I guess its goodbye to our long weekend up there on Safari” Mary realizes.

“Well I hope she can at least come to Gulu, it has been way to long since we last saw her. It would really be a good time…”